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Sitting on a street in Riyadh is an elderly, bearded man whose voice betrays a longing for the past. Asked about his past, Ibrahim his name, as well as those of the other interviewees, has been changed to ensure his safety squirms uncomfortably. He prefers not to look at women; during our conversation his gaze is directed elsewhere. Nor does he open up when asked what he thinks about the fact that the patrols are losing their power.
We were like soldiers; we did what we were told. I have no personal opinion on the subject. They took a beautiful thing, religion, and created a distorted version of it. Fifteen girls died and many others were injured. Or maybe he was referring to a case in which patrol personnel burst into the home of a person who was suspected of consuming alcohol and beat him to death. These stories, dating back more than a decade, now seem like ancient history. The modesty patrols indeed belong to the past.
He prohibited them from patrolling the streets, detaining passersby, demanding to see their IDs and harassing them. In practice, they disappeared, and today the organization exists only on paper. As of last month, Israel too is permitting its citizens to visit Saudi Arabia , and not only for pilgrimage to Mecca.
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Solo living has become a significant trend all over the world over the past few decades. It is especially common in large cities or towns in developed countries. More and more people choose to live alone as modern work patterns and financial independence enable them to choose the lifestyle they want.
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Jackie Northam. Fatma Tanis. Saudi women wait for their drivers outside a hotel in the Saudi capital Riyadh. The White Foam Cafe in Riyadh is a cheery little place with wooden tables and chairs, and a good reputation for its fair-trade coffees and vegan desserts. It’s also well-known for something else. She’s wearing stylish high-heeled shoes and a black abaya, a traditional floor-length cloak.
But her flowing hair is not covered. She asks NPR not to use her name for fear her family would find out about her dating past.
These signifiers are products of the last ten years, smartphones and virtual social networking, and cultural icons like Bob Marley and Kim Kardashian. But in Saudi Arabia, an isolated Wahhabist paradise — and the largest and wealthiest country in the Middle East — these abbreviative signs are handy rhetorical devices for tapping into an unrestrained subculture while under the seemingly inescapable gaze of government censors.
But then again, most products of modern life, particularly American culture, are. In the modern nation-state — be it liberal or Wahhabist — law-making is myth-making, and legal jargon, enforced by lashes and the death penalty, is fodder for the Saudi government, whose interests lie in maintaining the integrity and validity of the national imaginary. The instantiation of a national legal code supposedly creates and conscripts a legally sanctioned citizen, one that fits nicely within the Wahhabist doctrine of the Kingdom.
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